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WEAVING PROCESS

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Warping

Warping is the transfer of many yarns from the creel of single packages to a beam. The yarns will form a parallel sheet of yarn wound onto the beam.

The warp beam that will be installed on the weaving machines is called a weavers beam. The weavers beam may contain several thousand ends.

The 7.5 lb (3.4 kg) single packages are readied for warping. A warping beam is then warped in which threads are anchored and wrapped to a large beam in hundreds of parallel rows. Different towel widths require different numbers of warp threads. The warp beam is set to the width of the loom, on which it will be running,

The creel holds the single packages to be put on the beam. the most common type of creel in the preparation for toweling is two creels forming a "V" shape. The V-Creel is the best for warping cotton yarns at high speeds. They also do not require a yarn guide since they line up with the beam and have a low yarn tension.

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The single packages on the outside (active position) run directly to the beam, the packages on the inside are used to fill the outside positions.

Yarn speed should be constant during the beaming process and the build up of yarn on the beam can change the speed of the surface of the beam, thus care is taken to control the beam speed. The yarn on the beam is called the headstock.

Each yarn end has a tension controller and a stop motion sensor near the package so that if an end gets broken the machine can stop before the end reaches the headstock and be repaired.

DIRECT WARPING is when the yarns are drawn from the single packages on the creel directly onto the beam. Direct warping is used to make smaller beams which are combined later in slashing to produce the weaver's beam.

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SECTIONAL WARPING is where the yarn is wound onto the beam in sections starting with the tapered end of the beam. it is important that each section of the beam have the same numbers of yarns. the drum of the beam has a cone which has a slight angle that will prevent the yarns from slipping off.

Sectional warping is also important if you are making a yarn dyed stripe so that the warp colors will be consistent with the colors in the towel.

These huge beams, full of wrapped warp threads, are placed into a rack that holds up to 12 beams and sized in preparation for weaving.

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Below we have attached the video of an older model of a sectional warping machine in a Chinese factory. It appears that they are getting ready to begin the warping for a yarn dyed stripe towel. But this will show you the actual warp beam being prepared.


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SLASHING OR WARP SIZING

In the weaving process, the warp yarns are subjected to rubbing and chafing against metal by being threaded through drop wires, heddles and reed; tension both constant, by the left-off and take-up, and intermittent, by the shedding and beat-up. All of these lead to conditions which are favorable to end breakage, an occurrence which must be minimized. Terry toweling is a heavy fabric and most of this weight comes from the pile, thus the warp yarns must be strong to support the pile yarns added during weaving

Slashing or sometimes called sizing is when a protective coating of a polymeric film foaming agent is applied to the warp yarns before weaving. While this does not add any value to the yarn, it will strengthen the yarn, reduce yarn hairiness, increase yarn abrasion resistance and reduce fluff and fly during the weaving process. But most of all, these characteristics will reduce warp yarn breakage during weaving.

1. Adhesives - Adhesives available include all types of starches, carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and others.

2. Lubricants - Lubricants may be oils such as mineral and vegetable, waxes such as mineral, vegetable and animal or animal fats.

3. Additives - Additives may be included to provide features such as static elimination and mildew resistance.

4. Solvent - The solvent generally used is water.

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The size solution holds the threads together, weights the threads, and prevents the threads from being chafed and broken by the loom. Size solution is dispersed in water and may also include other additives as above.

It is also desirable to lubricate the surface of the yarn so as not to make it susceptible to damage through rubbing and chafing. This is done during the slashing process. Ply yarns are usually slashed for lubrication and/or smoothness.

The size solution is applied to the warp yarns by a slasher machine. A slasher typically comprises a size box containing the size solution and a set of rollers for guiding the warp yarns through the size solution. In a conventional system, the yarns pass under an immersion roller, immersing the yarns in the size solution, and then between a pair of pressure rollers which presses the size solution into the yarns and removes some of the excess water of the size solution from the yarns.

After the size solution is applied to the warp yarns, the sized yarns are subjected to a drying process. Conventionally, yarns are dried by passing them through hot air and/or over heated rollers or cans which evaporate most of the water. The drying process causes adjacent ends or strands to stick together due to excess size solution. Thus, the drying process bonds the warp yarns together.

A leasing apparatus splits the dried yarns and separates the adjacent ends for subsequent feeding into a weaving machine. Generally, a leasing apparatus includes lease rods or separator bars. The bonds between the warp yarns created by the drying process are broken by passing the warp sheets over and/or under lease rods and/or combs.

The yarn is now ready to be put on the loom beam. It is threaded through an expansion or "zigzag" comb which is adjusted to allow the warp sheet to come to the width required to fill the loom beam. The yarn is wound onto the loom beam at the headstock in a manner similar to that in the beaming operation.

The loom beam is now ready to be taken to the loom. It has exactly the required number of ends and it has been protected so as to withstand the rigors of weaving.

 

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DRAFTING


Drafting or drawing-in is the process of passing the warp ends through drop wires, heald or heddle eyes and reed dents in the designated order. With this step the warp ends are arranged in the required order, prevented from crossing over each other, and warp density is set. It is one of the most laborious of all textile processes, however, most weaving mills throughout the world continues to do this process by hand. In terry weaving two ends are drawn through each dent. The reed numbers which are most commonly used in terry weaving are 110/2, 115/2, 120/2. Here the first number gives the number of the dents on the reed per 10 cm, and the second number gives the number of warp ends which pass through one dent. The reed which is used for terry weaving is different from that of normal weaving. The distinguishing characteristic of this reed is that its dents are arranged in two rows. This double row prevents entanglement of pile and ground warp ends, but this has a disadvantage. Any reed mark on the fabric becomes more obvious. However this makes it easy to distinguish the weave from the 3- or 4- pick terry fabric.

During weaving the flow of the warp ends should have as few obstacles as possible. Thus straight drafting is applied for pile warp ends. Straight drafting is achieved as the first end through first harness, second end through the second harness, to the final number of harnesses. The order is sequential. If the warp density is high, skipping drafting can be used for both pile and ground ends. In skipping draft the drafting order does not follow the sequential order of ends

Warp is longitudinal, length wise yarns from top to bottom of the towel, thread in a piece of woven material that are tightly stretched or warped on a beam. Latitudinal threads called weft or filler, from side to side of the towel, are passed under and over the warp to form the fabric.

DRAWING- IN AND TYING -IN

If the new warp corresponds one for one in number of ends and weave pattern with the warp presently in place, the operation of tying-in is performed.

Tying-in is merely the cutting-off of the old warp and the end-to-end tying of the yarns from the new beam to the corresponding warp yarns already in place on the loom. This operation generally occurs at the loom. When the mill is producing long runs of the same fabric, tying-in is most prevalent. There are relatively inexpensive portable machines which can tie-in the new warp at a rate of up to 600 ends/minute; so manual tying-in rarely encountered in most modern mills.

If the new warp does not correspond exactly to the old warp or the loom does not have a warp to begin with, then drawing-in must be performed. Drawing-in is the process of providing each end with a drop wire, a heddle in the proper harness and a dent in the reed. Drawing-in does not/generally occur at the loom, but rather in another area in the mill. Drawing-in machines are extremely available but they are extremely expensive. Thus, unless the mill is very large and produces many short run fabrics of different design, manual drawing-in is more prevalent.

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Weaving involves the interlacing of two sets of threads at right angles to each other: the warp and the weft. The warp are held taut and in parallel order, typically by means of a loom, though some forms of weaving may use other methods. The loom is warped with the warp threads passing through heddles on two or more harnesses. The warp threads are moved up or down by the harnesses creating a space called the shed. The weft thread is wound onto spools called bobbins. The bobbins are placed in a shuttle, which carries the weft thread through the shed. The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads gives rise to many possible weave structures:”

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The basic principle, however, is something like that of making birds nest where the straws are interconnected to make a web like structure. Fabric is also interconnection of yarns or threads that is achieved by many different processes. Weaving is the major processes where two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced with each other to form a cloth. The lengthwise set of yarns running from the back to the front of a weaving loom is called warp. In the case of towels running from the top of the towel to the bottom of the towel lengthwise. The crosswise yarns are filled in the warps and thus they are known as the filling or the weft.

Unlike sheeting fabric, where the fibres only run in two directions, toweling has a third fibre which forms the pile or loop of the towel which is anchored into the base fabric. During the weaving process, these three threads are combined according to a given pattern. By varying the types of cotton used for each thread type and by changing the weaving pattern it is possible to produce different towels.

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Weaving has four major operations that are performed in sequence and are continuously repeated. These operations are shedding; picking; beating up; and taking up and letting off. 



Shedding involves raising up of alternate warp yarns in order to insert the filling yarn into the warp to form a shed. The harness on the modern weaving looms automatically performs shedding.

Picking is when the warp yarns are raised through shedding; the weft yarn is inserted through the shed with the help of a carrier device. A single crossing of the filling from one side of the loom to the other is called a pick. Various methods are adopted for carrying the filling yarn through the shed in different kinds of looms. A shuttle loom uses a shuttle that contains a bobbin of filling yarn. It leaves a trail of the filling at the rate of about 110 to 225 picks per minute. 


As the shuttle looms are very slow, shuttleless looms have been developed which include projectile loom; rapier loom; water jet loom; air jet loom etc. In projectile loom, the picking action is done by a series of small bullet like projectiles. Rapier looms have one or two rapier devices that travel along the width of the loom to carry the weft from one side to the other. Water jet and air jet looms, as the names suggest, use a jet of water and air respectively to carry the weft yarn across the loom. All of these shuttleless looms have speeds ranging from 200 to 600 PPM.

Now is a good opportunity for you to take a look at one of the newest high speed air jet looms in operation. I am pretty sure that make of this air jet loom is Picanol, one of the most popular brands. You will be surprised at how fast this machine is running.


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BEAT UP

The loops in terry fabrics are formed with a special reed motion and warp let- off system. These motions vary according to pick number per loop. In 3-pick terry weaving, two picks are inserted at a variable distance the loose pick distance- from the cloth fell. The loose pick distance is varied according to the desired loop height. When the third pick is beaten up, the reed pushes the pick group which includes the three picks, on the tightly tensioned ground warps, towards the fell and the loose pile warps are woven into the pick group are up righted and form loops. Depending on the weave, loops are thus formed on one or both sides of the fabric

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The first weft pick is the loop fixing pick, the second pick is binding pick, and the third one is the pile pick or the fast pick. The third pick is inserted into a completely reversed shed, as the pile and ground warp ends which are up, go down, and those which are down go upward, essentially locking the first in place. Thus, this motion prevents the drawing of the loop by the following sheds. There are also systems in which the reed motion is constant but the cloth fell is moving, like Zax-e Terry loom from Tsudakoma which has terry motion with a cloth fell shifting system or the ATVF ServorTerry weaving machine from Dornier Tsudakoma, 2005 or Seyam, 2004. Here, a servo motor replaces the traditional terry cam for pile formation, so the reed does not drop back. When the reed is at the front center the fabric is positively driven toward the reed to form pile by the backrest and terry bar in combination with the temples. The disadvantage of this system is that the friction which takes place during the forward-backward motion of the ends can lead to end breakage. Although weaving machines of different makes have different mechanism the main principle is the same. With today’s machines, the maximum loose pick distance practically achieved is 24 mm, which gives some less than 12 mm loop height in G6300F® Terry Weaving Machine. It is possible to switch between 3-, 4-, 5-, 6- or 7- pick terry and 8 different pile heights in ServoTerry® Dornier, 2003 and G6300F Terry Weaving Machines while the machine is running a towel which is woven with different pile heights is seen

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Jacquard Loom

JACQUARD WEAVING

The term Jacquard is not specific to any particular loom, but it refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning.

In Jacquard weaving each strand of warp is individually controlled. The heddle harness of the dobby loom is replaced by a series of upright wires with hooks at their upper ends. The hooks are attached to a controlling head high above the loom. The Jacquard head is controlled by a punch card system prior to 1990, but with new technology this is done electronically.

The cloth designer converts the design into punched cards. The presence or absence of holes in each card determines whether each warp yarn strand is raised or lowered. The cards are fed through the Jacquard head at the rate of one card for each pass of the shuttle across the loom. Since the cards are small, and each one can control only a few warp yarn strands, a large number of cards are laced together to control the full width of the loom.

Jacquard design has gone through two major phases in the twenty years since the computer was introduced in the mid 1970s.

Before the computer designing process: An artist drawing onto paper suitable designs. A technical stylist then translated the artwork into a design that could be woven. A technician then punched the cards directly from the technical stylists drawing.

Computerized designing solution: An artist drawing on paper - the same as before. The artists sketch was read directly onto the scanner and special software was used to help separate the sketch into a technical drawing. This drawing was controlled by the skilled technician and corrected. The card punching became simpler and more automated. This new process was introduced first by Sophis which was called “Simulation”. A simulation is the technical design, with its extra data -weaves and loom information - translated into a picture that is similar to the final woven cloth.

Jacquard weaving makes possible in almost any loom the programmed raising of each warp thread independently of the others. This brings much greater versatility to the weaving process, and offers the highest level of warp yarn control. This mechanism is probably one of the most important weaving inventions as Jacquard shedding made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of pattern weaving.

A factory must choose looms and shedding mechanisms to suit its commercial requirements. As a rule the more warp control required the greater the expense. So it would not be economical to purchase jacquard machines if one could make do with a dobby mechanism. As well as the capital expense, the jacquard machines are also more costly to maintain, as they are complex and require higher skilled personnel. Expensive design system are required to prepare the designs for the loom, and possibly also a card-cutting machine. Weaving will be more costly as jacquard mechanisms are more liable to produce seconds or mistakes than dobby looms. The looms will not run as fast, and down time will increase as it takes time to change the continuous chain of cards when a design changes. Most jacquard designs for towels are made with pre dyed yarns which are much more expensive then piece dyed fabric in solid color towels. Therefore with mechanical jacquards it is best to weave larger batch sizes.

Bonas Machine Company Ltd. launched the first electronic jacquard at ITMA, Milan in 1983 . Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends. This avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic jacquards are costly and may not be efficient in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs. The larger machines allowing single end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified where great versatility is required, or very specialized design requirements need to be met.

Take a look at a Jacquard weaving machine running in the following video. It appears that that loom is being run without beams or yarn for weaving, but might be run right after installation to be sure that all of the pieces were put together correctly. Notice the speed that the loom is running as compared to the air jet dobby loom in the previous video. You can certainly tell that the production capacity of the air jet loom is almost twice the capacity of the Jacquard loom.


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Please remember that in towels there is still limitations to the design of the towel.The current jacquard looms can only have two colors running from the top to the bottom of the towel. So not all designs can be translated from print to woven towels.

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Jacquard Weaving Room

The towels are now on long rows of fabric, since the weaving looms are weaving in widths much wider than the towel you will end up using, the wide rows of fabric are usually set up with three bath towels across or 6 hand towels across or 8 wash cloths across the roll of fabric. The towels are in what we call greige. This is the un dyed or un finished fabric, usually as light ivory color and the loops are very stiff and harsh from the sizing still on the yarns.

The rolls of fabric are move to the processing section of the factory where they will be dyed and the fabric soften before cutting and sewing.

So let us move to the processing section of the factory by clicking on AboutProcessing.


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